Today, his atelier stands as the lone emblem of the neighborhood’s history of sartorial splendor-a rich legacy that hearkens back to the work of preeminent photographer James Van Der Zee (1886–1983), who documented the Black bourgeoisie and celebrities of Harlem from the late nineteenth through the twentieth centuries in opulent environments carefully constructed in his studio. He was, therefore, intimately aware of Harlem’s glorious past. In his personal presentation, Dapper Dan emanates what professor Monica Miller calls the “semiotic power of the dandy.” He is the flaneur with a swagger beyond reproach, a Harlem dandy.ĭapper Dan was born in Harlem in 1944, just after the peak of the Harlem Renaissance but before crack and the AIDS crises ravaged historically Black neighborhoods across the country. He cuts a tall figure in his trademark bespoke suits, always tailored within an inch of their lives, and styled with an over-the-top accessory or three: matching frames, an ascot, cufflinks, a boutonnière, and impeccable shoes. His expressiveness, of course, is ultimately found in his dress. He seems to possess an unassuming, even avuncular disposition. In interviews and in his book, Dapper Dan discusses his views on the business side of fashion with startling pragmatism. His Harlem storefront, Dapper Dan’s Boutique, opened in 1982.ĭapper Dan of Harlem (American, founded 1982), designed by Daniel Day (American, born 1944). With his haberdashery, he found a niche uptown with an underserved clientele who wanted access to luxury goods. Over time, Dapper Dan parlayed his business acumen and shrewd survival skills into legitimate work. Dig a little and you will find America’s version of aristocracy is built on a foundation of enslavers, bootleggers, and gangsters. However, it is a story not unlike many others. In his recently published memoir, Dapper Dan: Made in Harlem (2019), Day may raise some eyebrows by describing his background candidly as a criminal and a hustler. The account of how Daniel Day became Dapper Dan is both extraordinary and a familiar American origin story of self-determination. To commemorate Black History Month, fashion historian Jonathan Square commissioned several essays on Black designers currently featured in the special exhibition In America: A Lexicon of Fashion. You can read the introductory essay here.
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